The La Paz Waltz

Monday 1st April - Saturday 6th April

I was back in La Paz it was time to continue my journey. It took a little while, for a few reasons, I suppose. Leaving is never easy, and leaving has been getting harder and harder for me, after more than a year on the road. Perhaps that's why, when I try to think of that week, I can't help but think of the La Paz Waltz. The local sailors use this to describe how in the La Paz harbour, the current pulls the boats one way, and the prevailing winds pull the boats the other, so they end up doing this back and forth thing. Amongst other things, it ends up twisting the anchor chains.

To get to the mainland, I was determined to hitch a ride. The ferry is certainly the easiest way out, but handing over $90 to get on a big old ferry just didn't appeal to me much. I love sailing and wanted to crew or hitch on a boat across. The problem was, the season was over for that crossing. I decided I would give myself a week, and if I couldn't find anything, I would take the ferry. I couldn't wait forever.

The sea calls!

So I spent the week amongst the salties at the wharf, asking around, getting on the VHF radio every morning for announcements, hoping for a response. When I wasn't doing that, I had time to do some more ambassador work. I had the great pleasure of meeting Barbara Spencer, who runs Care For Kids La Paz. Her organisation is geared towards giving children access to a good education. I knew of some of the troubles kids have getting access to education, but she revealed some novel aspects to me. Like how some families have such limited resources, all they can provide some children for a some meals is some sugared water. Imagine going to school and trying to concentrate on that! Add to that unmotivated teachers, and poorly equipped classrooms, and it's a wonder kids stay in school at all. Care for Kids organises wholesome breakfasts three times per week, scholarship programs for education costs, and other types of support. Barbara also runs the organisation pretty much single-handedly! She's a saint and it was cool to see what she does.

One of my last sunsets in La Paz

I had farewelled Elsa on Friday, as she had managed to hitch a ride north with someone from the marina, but I was getting desperate as I had had no offers, and my alotted week was nearly up. I had however seen a notice from someone called Jay, who was heading across the Sea of Cortez, but a long way north - to San Carlos. This was out of the way, and north instead of south... but it was a ride. And on a sailboat. And I could easily hitch or bus south from there to Mazatlan, where the ferry from La Paz goes. Well, easier than getting over the gulf anyway!

Sometimes the adventure takes you where it will, I figured, and sometimes adventure is letting something else choose the next direction, be it the toss of a coin, or the way the wind blows. It seemed as though the wind was blowing north. I told Jay yes, he said we leave in the morning, and I packed my things.

Last night in La Paz! Saying goodbye to, from right to left: Joel, Julia, the author, Greg (fellow bike tourist), and Pastora (Joel's friend).